The Aydins Diamond Cut Guide
Everything you need to know about the six most popular engagement ring diamond shapes: round, oval, marquise, pear, princess, and radiant. Lab grown, IGI certified, set in 14K gold.
Lab grown vs. mined diamonds
Lab grown diamonds are chemically, optically, and physically identical to mined diamonds. They are produced in controlled environments over weeks rather than formed in the earth over millions of years, but the end result is the same crystalline carbon structure with the same hardness, the same brilliance, and the same grading scale. The International Gemological Institute (IGI) grades lab grown diamonds on the same 4Cs scale as mined: carat, color, clarity, and cut.
The practical difference is price. A 2-carat IGI certified F color VS clarity lab grown round runs roughly $2,200 at Aydins. An equivalent mined diamond ring runs $8,000 to $15,000. The diamond is the same; the origin and the price are different.
Understanding the 4Cs
Carat is weight, not size. Two 1-carat diamonds in different cuts can look noticeably different sizes on the finger because of how the weight is distributed (deep vs. wide).
Color runs from D (completely colorless) to Z (light yellow). F is near the top of the scale and looks white in any setting. Aydins stones are F+ color.
Clarity measures inclusions. VS (very slight inclusions) means inclusions are invisible to the naked eye and only visible under 10x magnification. Aydins stones are VS+ clarity.
Cut measures how well the diamond is cut to reflect light, not the shape (round, oval, etc.). Cut grade matters more for brilliance than carat, color, or clarity. Aydins stones are Excellent cut.
Round Diamond Engagement Rings
The most popular diamond cut for engagement rings, accounting for roughly 60% of all sales worldwide.
The round brilliant cut was refined over the past century and represents the gold standard for diamond sparkle. The modern round brilliant has 58 facets (or 57 if no culet) cut at precise angles to maximize light return through the table. Round diamonds offer the highest brilliance and fire of any cut and are the most forgiving with color and clarity inclusions, since the facet pattern hides minor imperfections better than step cuts like emerald or asscher.
Round vs. other cuts
Round vs. Oval
Ovals appear larger than rounds at the same carat weight because of their elongated shape, but rounds return more light. Choose round for maximum brilliance, oval for finger-elongating effect.
Round vs. Princess
Princess (square) cuts cost roughly 30% less per carat than rounds because they waste less of the rough diamond during cutting. Rounds have superior brilliance; princess has a modern square silhouette.
Round vs. Cushion
Cushion cuts have a softer, more antique feel with rounded corners. Rounds have more fire and brilliance. Cushions wear larger on the finger; rounds appear smaller but sparkle more intensely.
Common questions about round diamonds
What size round diamond is best for an engagement ring?
1 carat is the most popular size for round brilliant engagement rings (about 35% of sales), followed by 1.5 carat and 2 carat. Round diamonds appear slightly smaller than other shapes at the same carat weight because they are deeper, so consider going up a quarter carat if finger size matters more than brilliance.
Are round brilliant lab grown diamonds as good as mined?
Yes. Lab grown round brilliants are chemically, optically, and physically identical to mined diamonds. They are graded by the same IGI standards on the same 4Cs scale. The only difference is origin. Pricing is roughly half that of mined equivalents.
What is the difference between round and round brilliant cut?
They are the same thing. "Round brilliant" describes the specific 58-facet cutting style applied to round diamonds. Almost every round diamond sold today is a round brilliant.
Does the round cut hide diamond imperfections?
Yes. The round brilliant facet pattern is the most forgiving of any cut for color tint and inclusions. VS clarity stones appear eye-clean in round brilliants. The brilliance of the cut also masks slight color, so F+ stones look perfectly white.
What metal looks best with a round diamond engagement ring?
14K white gold is the most popular setting because it pairs with the cool white tone of the stone without reflecting color into it. Two-tone gold (yellow band, white prongs) is second most popular and gives a warmer overall ring while keeping the diamond reading colorless.
Oval Diamond Engagement Rings
A modified brilliant: same 58 facets as a round, stretched into an elongated shape that lengthens the finger.
The oval cut has surged in popularity since 2020 and now ranks as the second most popular cut for engagement rings. Two important features: an oval looks up to 10% larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight because its elongated shape covers more surface area, and the long shape visually lengthens the finger, making them especially flattering for shorter fingers. Celebrities including Blake Lively, Hailey Bieber, and Ariana Grande wear oval engagement rings, fueling demand.
Oval vs. other cuts
Oval vs. Round
Ovals look larger than rounds at the same carat weight and elongate the finger. Rounds return more light. Choose oval for visual size and finger-flattering shape; round for maximum brilliance.
Oval vs. Pear
Both are elongated brilliant cuts. Pear has a pointed end (worn toward the nail), oval is symmetric. Ovals feel more classic; pears feel more distinctive.
Oval vs. Marquise
Both are elongated, but marquise has pointed ends on both sides making it look even longer. Marquise can chip at the points; ovals have no vulnerable edges.
Common questions about oval diamonds
Do oval diamonds have a bowtie?
All oval diamonds have some bowtie effect (a dark band across the center caused by light leaking through the elongated shape). The best cut ovals minimize the bowtie to almost invisible. Aydins ovals are selected for cuts where the bowtie is not visible to the eye.
What is the best length to width ratio for an oval diamond?
Between 1.35:1 and 1.50:1 is considered ideal. Below 1.30 the stone looks too round; above 1.55 it looks too narrow. Aydins ovals are cut to roughly 1.40 to 1.45.
Are oval engagement rings durable for daily wear?
Yes. Unlike marquise and pear cuts, ovals have no pointed ends that can chip. The smooth elliptical shape is one of the most durable cuts available for daily wear, second only to round.
Why are oval engagement rings so popular right now?
Ovals offer maximum visual size for the carat weight, a finger-elongating shape, and the brilliance of a round-cut facet pattern. Lab grown technology has made larger ovals accessible at half the price of mined equivalents.
What is the difference between an oval and a pear cut?
Both are elongated brilliant cuts. Oval is symmetrical (egg-shaped). Pear has one rounded end and one pointed end. Pear feels more unique; oval feels more classic and is easier to pair with wedding bands.
Marquise Diamond Engagement Rings
A pointed boat-shaped cut commissioned in 18th-century France by King Louis XV.
The marquise (sometimes called navette) cut has a storied history. Louis XV asked his court jeweler to create a diamond cut that mirrored the shape of the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. The result, an elongated oval with two pointed ends, has remained a symbol of distinction ever since. A marquise diamond has 58 brilliant facets like a round, but its elongated boat shape with pointed ends gives it the largest face-up appearance of any diamond cut: a 1 carat marquise looks roughly the size of a 1.5 carat round.
Marquise vs. other cuts
Marquise vs. Oval
Marquise looks even larger than oval at the same carat weight because of its pointed ends. Marquise points can chip if not protected by V-prongs; ovals have no vulnerable points.
Marquise vs. Pear
Both have pointed ends, but pear has one rounded end. Marquise is symmetrical; pear is asymmetrical. Marquise is more vintage-feeling; pear is more delicate.
Marquise vs. Round
Marquise faces up about 50% larger than a round of the same carat. Round has more brilliance. Choose marquise for visual size and distinctiveness; round for traditional sparkle.
Common questions about marquise diamonds
Why are marquise engagement rings called marquise?
The cut is named after the Marquise de Pompadour, mistress of King Louis XV of France. In the 18th century the king commissioned a court jeweler to create a diamond cut resembling the shape of her lips. The design has been a symbol of nobility ever since.
Do marquise diamonds chip easily?
The pointed ends are the most vulnerable feature. Aydins marquise settings use V-prongs at both points to protect them from impact. With proper setting and normal wear, chipping is rare.
What carat weight looks best in a marquise?
Because marquise diamonds face up larger than other cuts, even a 1 carat marquise has significant presence. A 3 carat marquise looks roughly the size of a 4.5 carat round on the finger.
What length to width ratio is best for a marquise?
Between 1.85:1 and 2.10:1 is considered ideal. Below 1.80 the marquise looks stubby; above 2.20 it looks too narrow and the bowtie effect becomes more visible. Aydins marquises are cut to roughly 1.95.
Are marquise diamonds out of style?
No. Marquise has cycled back into fashion since 2022 as part of the broader return of vintage-inspired and elongated cuts. Brides looking for a distinctive alternative to round and oval increasingly choose marquise.
Pear Diamond Engagement Rings
A hybrid teardrop: one rounded end like a round brilliant, one pointed end like a marquise.
The pear cut (also called teardrop) was developed in the 1400s in Bruges, Belgium by Flemish diamond cutter Lodewyk van Berquem. It has remained a romantic, distinctive engagement ring choice ever since. Pear diamonds have 58 brilliant facets. Worn with the point facing the nail (the convention since the cut was invented), the elongated shape lengthens the finger and gives the ring a graceful, asymmetric look. Like marquise, the pointed end is the most vulnerable feature and is typically protected by a V-prong.
Pear vs. other cuts
Pear vs. Oval
Both elongate the finger. Pear is asymmetric (one rounded, one pointed); oval is symmetric. Pear feels more distinctive; oval pairs more easily with wedding bands.
Pear vs. Marquise
Marquise has pointed ends on both sides. Pear has one round end and one point. Pears are more delicate and feminine; marquises are bolder and more vintage.
Pear vs. Round
Pear faces up roughly 25-35% larger than round at the same carat weight. Round has more brilliance; pear has more distinctive silhouette and finger-elongating effect.
Common questions about pear diamonds
Which direction does a pear shaped engagement ring face?
Traditionally the point faces toward the nail (away from the body). This is the convention since the cut was invented in the 1400s and how nearly every celebrity pear engagement ring (Cardi B, Ariana Grande, Victoria Beckham) is worn.
Are pear shaped engagement rings durable?
The pointed tip is the most vulnerable feature. Aydins pear settings use a V-prong at the point to protect it from chipping. With normal wear and the prong protection, durability is comparable to other elongated cuts.
Do pear diamonds have a bowtie?
Like all elongated brilliant cuts (oval, marquise, pear), pear diamonds show some bowtie effect, a dark band across the center. The best cut pears minimize the bowtie to barely visible. Aydins pears are selected for minimal bowtie.
Is a pear cut also called a teardrop?
Yes. "Pear cut" and "teardrop cut" refer to the same diamond shape. The terminology is interchangeable.
What size pear diamond should I get?
1 carat is the most popular size for pear engagement rings. Because pear faces up larger than round, even a 1 carat pear has significant presence. A 3 carat pear faces up roughly the size of a 4 carat round.
Princess Diamond Engagement Rings
The modern square brilliant. Comparable sparkle to a round in a contemporary geometric silhouette.
The princess cut (technically the "square modified brilliant") was developed in 1980 by Israeli cutter Betzalel Ambar. It quickly became the second most popular cut after round brilliant because it offers comparable sparkle in a contemporary square silhouette. A princess diamond has between 57 and 76 facets depending on the cutter, arranged in a chevron pattern that maximizes light return. Princess cuts are typically set with V-prongs or chevron prongs to protect the four sharp corners. They cost roughly 20-30% less per carat than rounds because they waste less of the rough diamond during cutting.
Princess vs. other cuts
Princess vs. Round
Princess delivers comparable brilliance in a modern square silhouette and costs roughly 25% less per carat. Round has slightly more fire; princess has sharper, more contemporary geometry.
Princess vs. Cushion
Both are square-ish. Cushion has rounded corners and a softer antique feel. Princess has sharp corners and a modern feel. Princess has slightly more sparkle.
Princess vs. Asscher
Both are square. Asscher is a step cut (concentric squares, art deco feel, less sparkle, more clarity-dependent). Princess is a brilliant cut (chevron facets, maximum sparkle).
Common questions about princess diamonds
Is the princess cut out of style?
No, but it has cycled. Princess was the dominant alternative to round through the 2000s and early 2010s. Round and oval have taken share since 2018, but princess remains the third most popular cut and is having a small revival as 2010s aesthetics return.
Do princess cut diamonds chip easily?
The four corners are the most vulnerable feature. Aydins princess settings use V-prongs or chevron prongs that cover and protect each corner. With proper setting, chipping during normal wear is rare.
Why are princess cuts cheaper than rounds?
Princess cuts retain about 60% of the rough diamond during cutting, compared to about 40% for round brilliants. Less waste means lower cost per finished carat. For lab grown princess vs round, the savings are typically 20-30%.
What size princess cut looks best?
1 carat is the most popular size, followed by 1.5 carat and 2 carat. Princess cuts face up slightly smaller than rounds at the same carat weight because they are deep. Consider a quarter carat larger than you would in round.
Are princess cuts good for lab grown?
Yes. The princess cut hides minor inclusions well (the chevron faceting masks them) and is forgiving of slight color. Lab grown princess diamonds at F+ color VS+ clarity look identical to D-flawless mined stones to the naked eye.
Radiant Diamond Engagement Rings
Cushion-shaped outline meets brilliant-cut faceting. Created in 1977 by Henry Grossbard.
The radiant cut was created in 1977 by Henry Grossbard, who wanted a square or rectangular diamond with the brilliance of a round. The result combines the elegant outline of an emerald or cushion cut with the sparkle of a brilliant. A radiant has 62 to 70 facets in a brilliant pattern, with cropped corners (rather than sharp like princess) that make it more durable for daily wear. Radiants can be cut square (1:1 ratio) or rectangular (1.10 to 1.50 ratio); both styles are popular. Radiant diamonds hide color and inclusions extremely well, so lower color grades can look completely white.
Radiant vs. other cuts
Radiant vs. Princess
Both are square-ish brilliant cuts. Princess has sharp corners; radiant has cropped corners (more durable, less likely to chip). Radiant has slightly more sparkle from its higher facet count.
Radiant vs. Cushion
Both have soft corners. Cushion has rounded "pillow" corners and an antique feel. Radiant has straight cropped corners and a more modern look.
Radiant vs. Emerald
Both can have the same outline. Emerald is a step cut (concentric rectangles, art deco hall-of-mirrors effect, less sparkle). Radiant is a brilliant cut (chevron facets, maximum sparkle).
Common questions about radiant diamonds
What is a radiant cut diamond?
A radiant cut is a square or rectangular diamond with cropped (cut) corners and brilliant-cut faceting (chevron pattern instead of step pattern). It was invented in 1977 by Henry Grossbard to combine the elegant outline of emerald cuts with the brilliance of round brilliants.
Is radiant or cushion better?
Radiant has more sparkle (brilliant faceting) and a more modern look (straight cropped corners). Cushion has a softer, antique feel (rounded "pillow" corners). For maximum brilliance choose radiant; for a vintage aesthetic choose cushion.
Do radiant cuts hide color well?
Yes. The brilliant faceting of a radiant masks color tint better than step-cut diamonds. G and H color radiants often appear colorless to the naked eye. Aydins radiants are F+ for guaranteed colorless appearance.
Are radiant cuts durable?
Yes. The cropped corners are far more durable than the sharp corners of princess cuts. Radiants are one of the most chip-resistant square/rectangular cuts and are excellent for daily wear.
What is the best length to width ratio for a radiant?
Square radiants are 1:1. Rectangular radiants typically range from 1.10 to 1.50 length-to-width. Below 1.20 the diamond looks nearly square; above 1.40 it looks distinctly elongated. Both styles are popular, choice depends on personal preference.
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